Unico Zelo, River Sand 2021

Lovely briney, vermouth-esque aromatics, plenty of wormwood and green olive under Riversand’s trademark whiffs of nectarine and a little grilled almond too. The slick, oily mouthfeel is there as always, but with a bit more check and balance this year. With the Riverland, it’s pretty easy for this wine to be fruit dominant, but even 2021 threw perfect balance the Riverland’s way. A lovely lemon juice-riddled salty acid line, before rolling into a wholemeal, toasty complexity. As refined an example of this wine as we’ve seen yet.

Fiano